When I first started sewing historical skirts (mainly bustle costumes) I didn’t think of just how many layers go around the waist. I knew I had my bustle plus a petticoat or two, then the skirt and overskirt. Of course I would be wearing all of those….
But I forgot to calculate that all those layers create a thickness I wasn’t prepared for. And not like too-tight modern jeans, I couldn’t just lie down and fasten the waistband button. So how does this problem get fixed?
A simple thing called Ease.
It’s built into a sewing pattern to allow the garment to hang nicely over the figure. Without it our clothes would be skin tight and we couldn’t move much. It allows us to move our arms, bend side to side and sit down.
The amount of extra fabric in a pattern varies according to the design and area of the body. Commercial patterns have ease already built into them. However, if you’re doing a custom costume, you’ll have to add that ease to your fitted pattern.
In the first of a 3-part series, we’ll take a brief look at how to get ease into your pattern for a superior fit and finished look.
Let’s start with waistbands. The most important thing here is to measure over all your undergarments. And don’t cheat and say “oh, I think my waist is around 32″ in everything.” That won’t work. You have to actually measure if you want your skirt to sit nicely on your waist.
So put on your chemise, drawers, corset, any under petticoat, support garment such as your hoop, bustle, pad or corded petticoat. Then add your over petticoats (which should be at least 2). Measure a snug waist over all these layers.
Waistband Ease:
- ½” to ¾” suggested total ease
This historical ease is merely a suggestion and is dependent on how thick your fabric is and how snug you want your finished waistband.
Now let’s pattern the skirt waistband:
- Cut your waistband the length of your measurement plus seam allowances plus ease plus any width of a placket if you are using one.
Example for a 30” waist (measurement over undergarments) with ½” seam allowances and 5/8” historical ease:
Length of waistband: 30” + ½” + ½” + 5/8” = 31-5/8” cut length.
Your waistband width can vary from 1” to 2” wide with 1 ¼” to 1 ½” the best widths. Make your width decision on time period, costume design and wearing comfort. If you’re sewing an overskirt too, you can use the same measurements as the base skirt or add a tiny bit more ease if you want.
Remember that the measurements given are suggestions only. Use them for all your 19th C. waistband patterns.
Part 2 – Can’t Get Those Buttons Closed?
Part 3 – Not Inclined to Dance – I can’t move my arms!
Do you have experience with adding sufficient ease to a waistband or even forgetting it? Share your story with us!
I have a collection of UFOs gathering in what has become my Pending Waistband Wednesday Collection (Which Wednesday TBA). Procrastinating because I couldn’t remember the appropriate amount of ease to factor in. (THANK YOU for answering that question!) But I now realize it’s really because I don’t have all my layers done in the proper order, that I can’t get an accurate “waist over garments to be worn” measurement.
I aim for just “close”–I try to use era correct patterns, the much bashed poly/cotton blends (cuz I’m after fun, not hours ironing!), straight machine stitching and hand work. I will spend HOURS making hand pleated ribbon trims, too. But my weight varys 🙁 So my waist does. Which would leave all my work hanging in storage should I gain or lose a few inches—not something I much want happening!! So I put my thinking cap on and came up with an incorrect, but very handy, solution: I make a waistband with a twill tape ” draw string” inside! I fasten it on one side and bring it out thru a button hole on the INSIDE part of the other end of the waistband. The tape is several inches longer than my band and I put in lengthwise button holes 1″ apart for several inches. I sew 2 buttons to the fixed INSIDE waistband, also 1″ apart. In this way, I can draw the waist tighter or let it out as needed ;-)!! Oh, I also make my waistbands 2-4″ bigger than my actual size, for the unhappy event I gain instead of lose weight.
The result is a flat band that gets slightly ‘rumpled’ when the twill tape is tightened, but I figure so what? It’s under my bodice and out of sight so I’m good with it since it let’s me continue to wear my skirt.
I only wear costume for activities of my local Historical Society: I host at the house built by a CW Col during the summer, stand on sidewalks to encourage passersby into a fundraiser, etc. Nuttin like hoops to catch a driver’s eye! So “my public” isn’t highly knowledgeable about era correct, enabling me to cheat a bit easier than if I attended reenactments.
I just recently found this site and have spent the last week reading my way back to this post. Great info and I learned LOTS!! I’ve also decided to ‘clean up’ my sewing methods a bit for greater correctness. Not to forsaking the poly blends, tho 😉 Can’t afford the better fabrics, so I sorta have a reason. But I can improve methods during sewing! Thanks for all the great stuff!!
Donna
SW WI farm wife and lover of Victorian
When I’ve used hook and eye or hook and bar for skirts I’ve used 2 or 3 hooks so I could adjust the waistband tightness depending if I wanted it on high/mid/low waist (also helps with if different undergarments are worn). This is an issue with me as I like to wear historical stuff for modern as well so sometimes I have the petticoats sometimes not. 😉
Trying to figure out how much ease to build in for waistband on TV101 bustle. Tried on a friend’s (without corset–as yet to be built) who is slightly smaller than me, so it was hookable but a bit tight to be wearing for a long period of time. She had another with slightly looser waistband, comfortable, but then the bustle dragged down the back even more than the first one.
So, is there a trick to being able to “breathe” at the waist without the bustle sagging?
Your waistband should sit snug around the waist. This is why it’s imperative to wear a good corset. The back wires should be supported well with ties or a panel to keep them tight and in place against the body. You can try a bustle pad UNDER the wired bustle to help support it.
I found my waist size increased differently according to what I used to close or tie my waistbands with. I was using a cord for my ties on my petticoat but when I tied it, the knot sometimes was under my skirt waistband (or corset) so it added bulk. I’ve since used ribbon for that, or grosgrain sometimes. I just recently purchased some thin cotton twill to try.
I’ve never had any issues with fit, except for altering for a changing body. Your information was useful, and I’m definitely bookmarking it for later!