Simplifying the Search for Undergarment Patterns – Chemise & Drawers

Chemise Pattern from 1902
Simplifying the Search for Undergarment Patterns - Chemise & Drawers
Chemise Pattern as seen in The Delineator, October 1902

If you’re at all like most historical costumers, you tend to focus on the main part of a new costume – the dress. I know I do. Sure, you give a thought to the corset; maybe even make a new one which we know is the substance for a well-presented silhouette. Then you follow with thoughts of what to wear under that new corset.

Wouldn’t it be wonderful to have a closet full of ready-made chemise & drawers sets without having to worry about making them at the last minute?

If you desire well-made undergarments – rather than spend the money on some shoddy, tacky thing from a foreign vendor who doesn’t know a thing about historical fashion –look first to this list of available patterns then apply your own sewing skills for a project you can be proud of.

No more crappy underwear!

From time to time we all get distracted by the bulk work of the project, letting the “little things” like basic undergarments fall by the wayside. But protecting your beautiful corset and dress from normal sweat and body oils is crucial.

Use this list of the many patterns available for the most basic of period clothing pieces. Please note that this list is not exhaustive. For suggestions on fabrics for undergarments read this post.

Also, let’s support these independent pattern publishers so they will continue to make patterns we can use to support our CADD (Costumer’s Attention Deficit Disorder).

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Links updated September 2021.

Truly Victorian – well designed and generally easy to follow; a favorite among historical costumers. Please tell Heather I sent you!

TV105 Combinations

#TV105 Combination Underwear

#TV102 Chemise & Drawers – one of the easiest patterns to sew up; quick & to the point; can be used as basic undergarments for Regency through Edwardian. I have a couple sets of these as my “every day” wear.

#TV106 1865 Chemise and Drawers – another great basic set that works for 1860s through 1890s.

#TVE02 Edwardian Underwear

Laughing Moon – JoAnn’s patterns are well done and full of additional information; a wide range of sizes are included

LM #100 Ladies Victorian Underwear  – this is the pattern that includes her ever popular Dore & Silverado corset patterns. The chemise has nice styling.

Sense & Sensibility – Please tell Jennie I sent you! Easy patterns designed for the modern sewer.

Regency Underthings

Regency Underthings

Past Patterns – generally well drafted with sources listed and other period information

Past Patterns Chemise

#002 Two Early Nineteenth Century Chemises  – great for Regency, Romantic Era & Early Victorian

#707 Yoked Chemise 1850-1870

#706 1850s-1860s Drawers and Petticoat

Past Patterns – Out Of Print (but search for availability from other vendors)

#107 Two Edwardian Combinations

#117 Edwardian French Drawers

Country Wives (available at Wm. Booth Draper)

Country Wives Two Chemises

#CWSS-02 Country Wives’ Two Chemises 1805-07 (cutting diagrams only) – suitable for Regency through Romantic Era

Kannik’s Korner – great patterns with attention to historical accuracy (I have this one in linen for all my Regency & Early Victorian costumes.)

Kannik's Korner Chemise

Woman’s Shift: 1790-1820

Period Impressions – can be hit or miss; fairly simple designs with basic instructions; pieces don’t always match or are cut differently than the drawing. Google search for vendors.

Period Impressions Chemise

Lady’s Chemise

Mid Nineteenth Century Drawers

Empire Bodiced Underpetticoat

Mantua Maker – garment sketches lack imagination but the sewing instructions are full of helpful details; sizes tend to run on the small side

Mantua Maker Underwear

Follow this link for Mantua Maker patterns not linked below. 

#1800-1: 1600 – 1840 Chemise Pattern

#1800-3: 1850 – 1890 Ball Gown Chemise Pattern

#1810-4: 1800 – 1830 Pantalettes Pattern

#1880-1: 1870’s – 1880’s Chemise Pattern

#1880-2: 1880’s – 1890’s Open Drawers Pattern

#1880-7: 1880’s – 1890’s Underwear Set Pattern

#1880-8: 1880’s – 1890’s Combinations Pattern

Buckaroo Bobbins – good patterns printed on newsprint paper. Their site had gone away for a while but is back. The patterns are still available from a variety of vendors so do a Google search.

Buckaroo Bobbins frillies

Ladies Frillies

Ageless Patterns – for those truly advanced; little or no sewing instructions; most traced straight off period diagrams and produced ‘as is’ with period sizing, although some patterns are now multi-sized

Ageless Patterns c.1897 Ladies Undergarments

Follow this link for all Ageless patterns – look under “Undergarments.” 

#1503: 1897 Ladies Undergarments

#1626: 1877 2 Ladies Chemises

#1627: 1877 Chemise Buttoned on the Shoulders

Simplicity – one of the “Big 4” commercial pattern lines

Simplicity 9769

#9769 Mid-19th C./Civil War Chemise & Drawers (google for availability)

#2890 Civil War Corset, Chemise & Drawers (out of print but google it)

#7215 Civil War Chemise & Corset (out of print but google it)

Folkwear – decent patterns that produce period-esque garments

Folkwear Edwardian Underthings

#203 Edwardian Underthings

#223 A Lady’s Chemise

Harriet’s Patterns â€“ not terrific patterns, but still options that are available

Follow this link and click on the time period you want. 

21-L Day Chemise

22-L Evening Chemise

24B-L Civil War Drawers

24A-L Drawers, Late 1880s

Pattern resources from books

Period Costume for Stage & Screen: 1800-1909 by Jean Hunnisett – many basic and foundational patterns on grids

Voice of Fashion (1900-1905)Edwardian Modiste (1905-1909) and Fashions of the Gilded Age, Volume 1 (1877-1882) published by Frances Grimble – pattern diagrams from period sources that need to be drafted out with a specific ruler system (included in each book); a wide variety of garments to fill your costume closet

If you want something different try these here below. Most are either original patterns and/or available as pattern diagrams.

Elizabeth Stewart Clark – her free chemise and drawers patterns are simple PDF directions for drafting out patterns to your measurements. I’ve made the drawers (didn’t measure my fabric width first so make sure you do) and put in a front opening. But after wearing for years I’ve decided a back opening on drawers is so much better.

Make a Simple Chemise

Draft Your Own Split Drawers

Both above links take you to the main Compendium page. Scroll down to Free Projects and Patterns section to find the PDF files.

Vintage Pattern Lending Library – these are original patterns that can be checked out (like a library) and some are available for purchase.  Although you don’t really need to make a mockup of undergarments, being originals I would almost recommend a fitting session with these.

1860s Civil War Era Chemise Pattern from Peterson’s, December 1860 – an original diagram straight from a period magazine

What’s your experience been with any of these patterns? Do you have a favorite chemise or drawers pattern? Share your experiences below.

24 thoughts on “Simplifying the Search for Undergarment Patterns – Chemise & Drawers

  1. Rosie says:

    Looking for something that says AT LEAST how much fabric is needed for a simple corset cover…not exactly a chemisette because it isn’t meant to be seen. I’m making a late 19th century kit and can’t find any tutorials, patterns, ANYTHING about this small but important undergarment.

  2. jean says:

    I am looking for a chemisette with a stand up collar pattern.. connecting with a button or tie..I would like it to go down and tie under the bust so it doesn’t move around a lot…anyone know where I can find this pattern

  3. Cora says:

    I am working on making my husband some historically accurate costumes. I would like to include underwear. Do you know of any companies that make patterns for different eras, both drawers and undershirts. Any help will be great.

  4. Diane Ullman says:

    I tried Laughing Moon’s underpinnings pattern LM 100, Ladies Victorian Underwear. I haven’t attempted the corsets yet, but I have a busk on order. The drawers are very simple and easy to do but the chemise is a prize pain with a lot of unnecessary fussiness. It looks great if you want to take the bother, but with so many other companies making chemise patterns with simple lines, that can be easliy decorated, well, I found it to be more bother than it was worth.

  5. CheriV says:

    I am making #107 Past Patterns, combination Ladies’ Edwardian Costume, chemise and petticoat. Problem #1 – I don’t know if the picture from the front of the package is what I’m making, or if it’s the ones on the inside pattern pieces. They aren’t the same! Problem #2 – There is a side closure for the petticoat, but the chmise buttons up the middle (but they are attached). The directions are SO incomplete. What a frustration. These are for living history, and I have to make two more! Does anyone read this and help???

    • Emily McClintock says:

      Did this pattern come with pictures included inside? I just got this pattern and it says fig 1 and such but there are not any figures included at all . Or as pictured. I’m stumped and have contacted the company I bought it from and they say they don’t see one in the one they have in stock. Mysterious!

  6. archaeo_girl says:

    I’ve made the TV combo underwear several times, and the pattern and instructions are very easy (I’ve loved all the TV patterns I’ve tried, actually). I’ve made them in cotton gauze and fine linen. It’s absolutely worth it to make sure the top of the split crotch comes all the way up if you experience chub rub. it definitely reduces bulk under the corset, though i did have a couple of button impressions on my waist (I’ve mostly worn them under late 1880s bustle outfits- use only flat buttons, BTW, no shank!). i added an extra button in front of the crotch and over the butt for extra security (fear of going ass over tits while running around at an event) but don’t even do them up anymore as the overlap stays with no problem. For what it’s worth, the largest size will go up to 55″ bust and waist, 60-65″ hips before you have to add width to the garment.

  7. Nina says:

    Hi, I was wondering if you have any info on whether combinations were widely worn by 1883? I’m trying to decide whether I should do a chemise/petticoat combo or a combinations set for a middle-class girl in that year, and I know they are both accurate but I’m just wondering which is MORE accurate (because I think the combinations didn’t become the norm till 1890s but I’m not sure). 🙂 I knew very little about Bustle Era before visiting your site, it is very helpful!

    • Jennifer Rosbrugh says:

      I’m not sure something can be “more” accurate if it’s already being worn. Now, if it was more *common* – that I’m not sure of with combinations. We don’t see a ton of existing pieces but do see quite a bit of the separate chemise and drawers garments. If the number of surviving pieces is limited (they ARE around though) it could mean they were worn until they were no longer useful, or they simply were not as common as the two pieces. I know this gives you *SO* much more to go on… The separate garments would give you more leeway in dressing for other decades.

  8. Frances Grimble says:

    Thanks for mentioning my book The Voice of Fashion. I also put numerous patterns for undergarments into these books: Reconstruction Era Fashions, Fashions of the Gilded Age Volume 1, Bustle Fashions 1885-1887, Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889, and The Edwardian Modiste.
    3 minutes ago · Like

  9. melody says:

    Looking for “Corsets & Crinoline” book by nora wagh. It has a bustle pattern in it. went to my states (Calif) library and its not available, Does anyone have the instructions they could pass on to me to make this lobster tail bustle?
    thanks to anyone who replies!

    • Jennifer Rosbrugh says:

      There isn’t really instructions in the Waugh book, just diagrams for pattern enlarging and text talking about the eras.

  10. BMW says:

    I have made the Sense & Sensibility chemise as well as the Folkware Edwardian underthings. Both a great patterns and go together really easily. My only quibble with the S&S is probably due to my wearing a strapless corset instead of my 18th century corset under my Regency dress. If the drawstring is low enough for an (in)decent evening decolletage, the sleeves have a tendency to slip down into your ballgown sleeves and peek out from under your fashion fabric. I prefer having no straps on my stays when I’m dancing, so I think I may just go ahead and make a non-period sleeveless chemise so I can loop the lingerie straps I sewed into my ballgowns through the shoulder straps of the chemise.

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