You know the routine – you didn’t allow enough time to finish your dress and now you’re having to cut corners to get it even *wearable.*
I’ve been there. Early on in my costume sewing. Not so bad that I had to be sewn into my dress, but still pushing the clock til it was bruised. I have, however, sewn friends into their bodices. Not something I like or want to repeat.
So I began to notice little areas I could… shall we say… cheat a little in my projects.
I mean, I’m a modern 21st Century girl with a full-time office job, a husband and two furry, attention-deprived (apparently) kitties. Oh, and a house to maintain, extended family to spend time with, a blog to write…. you get the picture. I’m sure you’ve got a long list of responsibilities too.
So while I was balancing all my twirling plates I’d find ways to make my sewing MOVE faster. It’s so annoying to spend an entire Saturday afternoon on pattern alterations only to fall into bed that night cursing the heavens for the speedy passage of time and your inability to get things done quickly.
I have to warn you here, especially if you are a hard core/purist/authentic sewer. I cheat. I use modern methods for my period garments. 99% of them.
In no particular order…
*I serge. Everywhere. Nearly all my seam allowances are covered with those fancy loopy stitches from my Viking 936. I flatline this way. On some edges though, I’ll have to machine baste, like on necklines and hems that will be enclosed in bias. The last thing I serge on my bodices are the armhole seam allowances.
*I use modern interfacing in belts, collars, cuffs and along the back buttonhole openings on Regency gowns. I don’t do this all the time. But when the stash of organdy has run out, well, my hat box full of fusible interfacings will produce something that will work.
*The Assembly Line. Yes, it really does work, and fast!
*The closets full of historical clothing would not be possible without skirt hooks & bars. I should buy stock in Dritz. 56% of my openings are closed with skirt hooks. The other portion with buttons and (machine-made) buttonholes with 7% regular hooks & eyes or thread loops. (75% of statistics are made up on the spot but not my use of these fabulous little notions.)
*Rotary cutters were made for making bias for piping and finishing. I seriously don’t know how the Victorians lived without them.
*Petticoat ruffles only take 27 hours now and not the grueling 68 it used to take with the new Ruffler foot! Get it today to speedily set on miles of gorgeous, flittering waves of cotton. My eyes were opened with this. No more two basting stitches, sewing over dental floss or the like. Although on a side note, I still do prefer the look of regular two thread gathering and use it often. Just not on petticoat ruffles that no one sees.
*I use Stitch Witchery, Fray-Check and Fabri-Tac glue.
*Washable fabrics get pre-treated in a washing machine and dryer.
*I apply my boning in its casing to the bodice by machine. (The only part I hand whip is on the dart points.)
*And I use a Sharpie to write sizes on the ends of bones and rows of cut hoop wire.
Of course other modern methods pop up as I’m going along as they usually do. I’m a rogue.
Now that you know some of my 21st C. secrets, please share yours. I know you have them too. 
{ 19 comments… read them below or add one }
Hook & eye tape. I just can’t get those individual suckers lined up right. And I internix a snap or two.
Oh, and I just finished yards and yards of ruffles for my petticoat. All using my ruffler. And thank God I figured out how to use my rolled hem foot because I wasn’t looking forward to pressing and turning the miles of hem to stitch it.
I do most of these too. Fray Check is the only way some of the lighter weight and fray able fabrics made it through multiple events, lol. Thanks!
I am so very relieved to hear you say these things.
I felt so guilty for serging the tops seams of a petticoat…
I sew french seams for my regular seams, but ruffle seams look so dreadful and serging cleans them up so nice.
Hook and eye tape and yes I use skirt hooks and bars too.
Whew…. thanks!
I cheat as well. As long as it doesn’t impact the outward appearance I’m game. I used snap tape on an underdress; it was a quick and a secure closure that no one would see. And, like you, Jennifer, I serge where I can.
I have been known to put my hoops together with duct tape…
Hey, nothing wrong with “cheating”. When I make Regency dresses, I wear them on a daily basis so I didn’t aim to make them “historically accurate”. My aim is a good well-made, fast to make, durable garment.
I like when seamstresses & tailors can produce beautiful garments using machine & hand-sewing.
When my serger works, it’s a beautiful thing. I love me some serging.
I believe that it depends on what you are aiming to produce. If you are reproducing a museum-quality garment, then use the methods they used in that period. Yet if you want a regular costume or garment, then use modern methods.
Agreed. Unless I’m entering the garment in a “period” competition, some of the modern cheats are faster, more stable and longer lasting.
Yea! you are all after my own heart. Whenever you can cheat! If they’d had it they’d of used it!
Exactly.
I cheat where ever possible when it comes to my reenactment clothing. I hem by hand, and any top stitching. But if it is an internal seam you better believe this girl will cut any corner she can. Love your site!
I rarely ever mock up. and once the fashion fabric is cut out, I do the fitting with that and than tuck and pin and just sew over those alterations. it works. when im doing historical stuff, i don’t even measure the round gown on my regency stuff…I put it around me like a towel to make sure what i have will go around my butt and than sew it on. lol and safety pins. I have sewed them into garmets cause i didnt have time to sew the alteration. lol
oh, and when doing stays. i put the lining on inch by inch instead of cutting out the shapes. actually works better…especially since i can place the bones easier that way
whopper poppers. use as needed. Packaged bias tape,(i have the bias tape makers,but.. meh… to lazy.) Pre made patterns, I can’t drape,draft,or droop.
In addition to my ruffler foot I also have a gathering foot. I use it all the time for flounce. It makes a nice even gather and if you need to let out or take in your gathered piece it is by a couple of inches not feet.
I set my sewing machine to ruffle on it’s own. I set the upper thread at its longest, and the bobbin thread at its shortest (tightest tension)….it makes it a 2:1 ratio of stitiching w/ my Brother machine. Then stitch away…it “automatically” ruffles a length of fabric in no time at all.
Plastic zip ties from walmart make nice boning for bodices. Cheap too. AND I don’t have to wait for it to be shipped to me.
I found a cheap way to buy boning. If you go to the hardware store and look for Zip Ties (aka Cable Ties). They come from small to 6 feet long. Cut the ends off and they work great. I use them in my Bustle and Lobster tail. If you are using them under very very heavy fabric I double them up. I have not had issues with them dry cracking even when dried in dryer.
It is so refreshing to see someone else admit to cheating. Hurray for sergers, fusible interfacing, zip ties for boning and the ruffler foot.