How to Deal With Too Much Width in Your Sleeve Cap

by Jennifer Rosbrugh on July 5, 2012

1885 White Cotton Sleeve

1885 White Cotton Bodice & Set In Sleeve

Sleeves can be one of the most frustrating elements of a bodice. The pattern can be too long, they hang funny and there is this struggle with getting them set into the armhole and still look nice.

Many times a sleeve has to be enlarged in width to fit a larger bicep measurement (a very common adjustment & problem for costumers). Or you might have small arms and the sleeve cap has simply way too much fabric in it to set it in smoothly and not be puffy.

In this new video tutorial, I share 3 techniques you can do to handle that extra fabric across the sleeve cap. (The cap is the top of the sleeve from the underarm/bicep line up to the top edge.

Darts in Sleeve Cap to Remove Ease

#2: Darts in Sleeve Cap to Remove Ease

Patterning Out Sleeve Cap Width with Full Length Dart

#3 Patterning Out Sleeve Cap Width with Full Length Dart

And when sewing, try putting in two basting lines on either side of the seamline (as you would to gather) to help smooth in that extra width (ease).

Aside from width, what other issues do you have with making sleeves?

{ 9 comments… read them below or add one }

Janet July 5, 2012

Thank you Jennifer, that was a real help.
I love the video tutorials!

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Val LaBore July 5, 2012

Thank you, Jennifer. I’m going to try that next time I do sleeves. I usually end up trying to alter the sleeve itself, but will try and remember to do it in my pattern first.

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Gailynne July 5, 2012

Once again, thank you, thank you, Jennifer.

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Nancy July 5, 2012

Love it love it! I have been sewing for 40 years, and this wonder woman teaches me something new every time I see her!

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Jennifer Rosbrugh July 5, 2012

Why, thank you Nancy! Glad to hear you are enjoying the posts. :-)

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Pepa July 5, 2012

¡Genial! Gracias.

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Connie July 6, 2012

Perfect timing, I have a sleeve mock-up I just set and its way to puffy on top… i was looking through my books to see how to fix the issue but couldnt really find any helpful information. I was looking through my email and there was your post on sleeves!! Thank you so much!! I just watched the tutorial and will use your suggestions tonight!

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Gail July 6, 2012

Great video.

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Rose January 6, 2013

Thank you so much for this! I am posting a link on my blog as well…I wish I would have seen this when I was up to all hours the night before the “big event” trying to fit way too much sleeve cap into a much smaller arm opening.

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